Friday, 10 October 2014

Light pink dress for Astrid, ca.1820

Unbelievable, but I'm back!)

Today I want to show you one of my last projects - light pink dress cotton satin dress, partially lined with white cotton, inspired by KSUM collection item #2002.035.0006.

Bodice is gathered from front and back and has a hidden lacing.
Short sleeves are decorated with buttons (+net under-sleeves).
Full skirt with 2 rows of roulaux with petal shaped flaps near skirt bottom.

UPD: My dear readers, now you can also follow me on Facebook 

Thursday, 12 December 2013

Icy dress for Natalie

Here is one of my old works - light empire dress of blue silk chiffon for Natalie.
The inspiration comes from her new hand embroidered shawl with nice paisley ornaments that you can see on the picture below. And my work was to create a gown that will match perfectly with this accessory and, at the same moment, be wonderful itself.
The decisions comes immediately -  it should be light, glowing from the inside dress, simple, but refined at the same time, decorated with embroidery (made by another artisan), based on tracery lines of shawl figures. Hours of work - and here it is)

I'm in love with the result. And you? 

Saturday, 30 November 2013

Sky blue ensemble, inspired by KCI walking dress ca.1815 for Cynthia

Yesterday I'd made the last fitting of the dress, now it's just a question of covering buttons with silk and finishing some other little decorative details. So in few weeks I'll share with you a high quality pictures of the ensemble and add a long post to describe everything about it. Now it's just a couple of fast-made photos of a happy owner as a prelude ;)

The inspiration of the project is a spencer jacket, underbodice and skirt from Kyoto Costume Institute, dated ca.1815.

But we go further, and now we have different looks with less material used:
  • Velvet skirt with white silk simple sleeveless bodice, decorated with plait, trimmed with silk pipping;
  • Long-sleeve spencer, the idea is taken from KCI item;
  • Ball/evening spencer from velvet, but with silk sleeves, decorated with scallops and pleating;
  • Regency bonnet, with plumes, silk trims and pearls, made in style of 1810s.

Wednesday, 23 October 2013

Walking dress from an apple dream

I hope, I give you enough time to enjoy my previous garments, cause now it's time to present a new one, taken from a never ending collection of Victoria and Albert Museum.
This redingote of light apple-green tussah silk, silk satin the same color and many inches of white silk piping is almost an exact copy of one of the most known item of V&A - ca.1810 walking dress ensemble, dated 1817-1820:

The outfit is slightly inspired by military uniform, but so perfectly feminine with all this floral details, silk tassels and elegant cording, that I change almost nothing, just add more contrast using different textures and colors.

The walking dress (or carriage dress) itself consisting of spencer jacket and sleeveless dress. Also I get a nice brown leather boots with front lasing to match, short white leather gloves and made a silk satin regency bonnet, decorated with white plumes and silk ribbons and sew fancy white muslin shirt (pictures of the underwear will be in one of the future posts).

The short waist length spencer has a centre front opening, fastens with white metal hooks and eyes. The collar is stiffened and turned down, shaped to points at the sides and at the centre back, each trimmed with a small silk tassel. The sleeves are long with a puffed epaulet of silk satin leaves. The cuff is trumpet shaped, held at the wrist by a satin cuff band with tassels. The front is trimmed with curving satin bands, and the ends are trimmed with tassels. The waistband is made by silk satin to emphasize the waistline. Spenser is lined with cream cotton. By the edge of the collar and cuffs I also add light silk lase with floral pattern.

The dress has a small sleeveless bodies, lined with cotton, and the hem, padded and above decorated with applied satin border of an undulating edge and curved bands in each hollow, "linked to the bottom of the band with an applied cordonné pleated band"(c).

Sunday, 16 September 2012

Skirt and spencer jacket, 1823

Let me show you my interpretation of the elegant ensemble from the V&A museum, London.
Although the museum one consists of dress and jacket, my outfit is made in two pieces - a skirt held up with braces and a spencer, cause I really have no need in such dress on its own and I had just 5 yards of this amazing silk. 

My carriage dress made from pink silk with stripes and light yellow geometric design on them.
The matching jacket has a turned down collar, short sleeves and long sleeves arranged in puffs which diminish slightly towards the wrist. It has an attached belt trimmed with loops and a silk waist ribbon. The details of trimming on the skirt and jacket bodice are lined with cotton.

The gown is remarkable for the quality and variety of its faced and applied decoration. There are faced slits which stiffen the collar, folds along the sleeves, small straps, decorated with satin cord and a deep scalloped silk taffeta border with a padded hem.

Nice option - this jacket is suitable for other occasions and can be worn on its own as a spencer.

And few words about my new tall 1820's bonnet in a deep purple colour.
All pieces is hand sewn from theatrical buckram (it was really hard to find some here in Moscow...) and covered with silk satin in a deep purple colour. 
It's decorated with silk satin ribbons, hand sewn satin flowers and white plumes. 

Wednesday, 11 January 2012

Katharina von Westphalen’s riding habit, ca.1810

Wonderful Christmas holidays helped me to gain strength and begin the long-awaited project - a new chic riding habit to the “200th anniversary of the Battle of Waterloo”. Of course, there is still plenty of time before , but I can’t wait, especially when there is a long free week)

The dark blue velvet Katharina von Westphalen’s riding habit is one of the most elegant empire gown I ever see. 

I’d found some information about the painter and the picture itself:
"Fréderique-Catherine de Wurtemberg (1782-1835), reine de Westphalie" in front of the castle Wilhemshôhe, by  Antoine-Jean Gros, Baron (1771-1835).  There was no clear dating,  but we can see the similar gown on the painting of  1819 “Embarquement de la Duchesse d'Angoulême à Pauillac” by Antoine-Jean Gros. So it should be the end of 1810s, I think. 
The military-inspired spencer show much taste and originality: it trimmed with golden cords, covered with ermine fur and has a wide belt with jeweled buckle decorated with golden and silver braids.  The habit skirt has a train with ermine fur and rich gold embroidery on the hem that ensured the legs were completely covered when riding side saddle.
The cap is also composed of velvet. It pays homage to male costume, but just as well adds decidedly feminine with silver and gold embroidery in the form of a crown and plume.

I'd supposed to create an exact copy of this incredible dress, but then change my mined and finally it'll change the color. 

The pattern is ready, now it is time to start the spencer)
In the following weeks I’ll have a fascinating job
with the fur (never before worked with it, so it would be fun), braiding cords and (!) many-many-many square inches of gold embroidery.

So, let the project begin, and I'll share the few years)

Tuesday, 8 November 2011

Princess Charlotte's "Pearl Dress", 1817

The one of the maddest projects I've ever come up with was destined for ball in the Tyszkiewicz palace in Trakai, Lithuania.

I made a gown based on the Princess Charlotte's 1817 yellow silk "Pearl Dress". So it is similary beaded in faux pearls and "white silk crimped gauze", but out of velvet - I fell in love with it for it's wonderful deep blue color.

The beading at the hem took approximately 170 hours or 5 weeks time.  And lots of pearls in two sizes - 12000 in fact. Give or take a few.
I'm proud of having actually finished it on time %)

The design pattern will be finished soon, so as the bottom embellishment and the belt, and I'll wear it once again.

And here are more pictures, taken from a book " In Royal Fashion", by Kay Staniland.